How to Color Hair Platinum Blonde: A Master Colorist’s Guide

Achieving platinum blonde hair is a bold statement. It’s the hair equivalent of wearing a white dress – striking, impactful, and undeniably chic. But let’s be frank: it’s also one of the trickiest hair color transformations you can undertake. Done wrong, you’re looking at damaged, brassy, or even orange hair. Done right, though, you’ll have a head-turning, confidence-boosting style. So, how do you get that coveted platinum shade? The core process involves multiple steps: pre-lightening (bleaching) to remove existing pigment, toning to neutralize unwanted undertones, and finally, meticulous aftercare to maintain the color and health of your hair. This requires a deep understanding of hair color theory, product knowledge, and a healthy dose of patience. It’s a multi-stage process, and rushing it is a recipe for disaster.

Understanding the Journey to Platinum

Before we delve into the ‘how,’ let’s talk about the ‘why’ this is so complex. Hair contains natural pigments – melanin – that come in two forms: eumelanin (brown/black) and pheomelanin (red/yellow). Bleaching lifts these pigments, and the lighter your hair, the more pigments are removed. Going platinum requires stripping virtually all of the pigment, which is why it’s so damaging.

Here’s the step-by-step breakdown of how to color hair platinum blonde:

1. Consultation and Assessment: This is crucial, especially if you’re planning a DIY job. Assess your hair’s current condition, color, and history. Virgin hair (hair that hasn’t been previously colored) is easier to lighten than previously colored hair. Determine the level of lift required. Are you starting with dark brown hair or light blonde? This will dictate the number of bleaching sessions needed.
2. Gather Your Supplies: Don’t skimp on quality here. You’ll need:
   • High-quality bleach powder: I recommend professional-grade bleach.
   • Developer: Choose the right volume developer based on your hair’s condition and desired lift (10-20 volume for gentler lift, 30 volume for faster lift, but use with caution). Lower volume is always better for the hair’s health, even if it takes longer.
   • Toner: A purple-based or blue-based toner to neutralize yellow and orange tones.
   • Mixing bowl and applicator brush: Non-metallic.
   • Gloves: Essential for protection.
   • Old towel and clothing: Bleach stains everything.
   • Hair clips: To section your hair.
   • Coconut oil or similar hair protector: To pre-treat your hair and minimize damage.
   • Deep conditioner: For after-bleach treatment.
3. Strand Test: Never skip this. Apply the bleach mixture to a small, inconspicuous section of hair (underneath is ideal). This will show you how your hair reacts to the bleach and how long it takes to reach the desired level of lift.
4. Prepare Your Hair: A few days before bleaching, deep condition your hair and avoid washing it too frequently. The natural oils will help protect your scalp. Apply a generous amount of coconut oil to your hair the night before bleaching. Do not rinse it out.
5. Section Your Hair: Divide your hair into four sections: two in the front and two in the back. This will ensure even application.
6. Mix the Bleach: Follow the instructions on the bleach powder packaging. The typical ratio is 1:2 (bleach powder to developer). Mix thoroughly until you have a smooth, creamy consistency.
7. Apply the Bleach: Start applying the bleach to the roots first, as they need the most time to lift. Work quickly and evenly, saturating each strand. Avoid overlapping bleach on previously lightened hair, as this can cause breakage.
8. Process the Bleach: Check your hair every 10-15 minutes. The processing time will vary depending on your hair’s color and the developer volume. Never leave the bleach on for longer than the manufacturer’s recommended time. The maximum processing time is usually around 50 minutes.
9. Rinse and Shampoo: Rinse your hair thoroughly with cool water until all traces of bleach are removed. Shampoo with a sulfate-free shampoo designed for color-treated hair.
10. Toning: This is where the magic happens. Apply the toner according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Toner neutralizes any remaining yellow or orange tones, creating that cool, platinum blonde. Process for the recommended time.
11. Rinse and Condition: Rinse the toner thoroughly and apply a deep conditioner. Leave it on for at least 5-10 minutes.
12. Dry and Style: Gently towel dry your hair and allow it to air dry as much as possible. Avoid using heat styling tools immediately after bleaching. When you do use heat, always use a heat protectant spray.
13. Maintenance: Platinum blonde requires constant upkeep. Use purple shampoo and conditioner to keep brassiness at bay. Deep condition regularly and avoid heat styling as much as possible. Root touch-ups will be needed every 4-6 weeks.

Maintaining Platinum Perfection

The work doesn’t stop after the initial coloring. Maintaining platinum blonde is an ongoing commitment. Be prepared to invest in high-quality hair care products and schedule regular salon visits for touch-ups and treatments. Olaplex treatments are a godsend for strengthening and repairing damaged hair.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

1. How damaging is it to go platinum blonde?

Extremely damaging, especially if your hair is naturally dark or already damaged. Bleaching breaks down the hair’s protein structure, leading to dryness, breakage, and split ends. Minimizing damage requires using low-volume developer, avoiding overlapping bleach, and incorporating protein treatments into your routine.

2. Can I go platinum blonde in one session?

Unlikely, especially if you have dark hair. Trying to lift too many levels in one session will severely damage your hair. It’s better to do it gradually, with multiple bleaching sessions spaced a few weeks apart, to allow your hair to recover.

3. What volume developer should I use for platinum blonde?

It depends on your hair’s starting color and condition. 10 or 20 volume is generally recommended for healthier hair and gradual lift. 30 volume should be used with caution and only if your hair is in good condition. Never use 40 volume at home.

4. How often should I bleach my hair to maintain platinum blonde?

Root touch-ups are typically needed every 4-6 weeks. Only apply bleach to the new growth to avoid damaging previously lightened hair.

5. What is the best toner for platinum blonde?

Purple-based toners are ideal for neutralizing yellow tones, while blue-based toners are better for neutralizing orange tones. Choose a toner based on the undertones in your hair.

6. How do I prevent my platinum blonde hair from turning yellow?

Use purple shampoo and conditioner regularly to neutralize yellow tones. Avoid using products that contain sulfates, as they can strip the hair of color. Also, consider using a clarifying shampoo occasionally to remove buildup that can contribute to brassiness.

7. My hair turned orange after bleaching. What do I do?

This is common, especially when lifting dark hair. You’ll need to bleach it again to lift more pigment. Wait a few weeks and deep condition your hair in the meantime. Use a blue-based toner to neutralize the orange tones.

8. My hair is breaking after bleaching. What should I do?

Stop bleaching immediately and focus on repairing your hair. Use protein treatments and deep conditioners to strengthen the hair shaft. Avoid heat styling and consider getting a trim to remove damaged ends. Consult a professional stylist for advice.

9. Can I bleach my hair if I have box dye on it?

It’s risky. Box dye can create unpredictable results when mixed with bleach. It’s best to consult a professional stylist who can assess the situation and determine the best course of action. Color correction may be necessary.

10. How can I protect my hair during bleaching?

Pre-treating your hair with coconut oil or similar hair protectant can help minimize damage. Olaplex is another excellent option that can be added to the bleach mixture to protect the hair’s bonds.

11. What is the difference between bleach and toner?

Bleach lifts the natural pigment from your hair, while toner neutralizes unwanted undertones. Bleach is used to lighten the hair, while toner is used to adjust the tone of the hair. They are both essential for achieving platinum blonde.

12. Is it better to go to a salon to get platinum blonde hair?

Absolutely. While DIY hair coloring has become more accessible, achieving platinum blonde is best left to the professionals. They have the expertise, products, and tools to minimize damage and achieve the desired results. The cost is higher, but the results and the health of your hair will be worth the investment. Attempting this transformation at home without the proper knowledge can lead to irreversible damage and costly color correction.

Going platinum is an investment, both in time and money. But with the right approach and a healthy dose of realism, you can achieve that stunning, head-turning blonde you’ve always dreamed of. Remember, healthy hair is beautiful hair, so prioritize its well-being throughout the entire process.