Unleash Your Inner Colorist: A Pro’s Guide to the DIY Money Piece

So, you’re itching for a salon-worthy money piece but the thought of the salon bill is making your wallet weep? Fear not, fellow hair enthusiast! Achieving that face-framing brilliance at home is entirely possible. However, proceed with caution and a dash of bravado – this isn’t just slapping on some bleach and hoping for the best. Let’s dive deep into the secrets of a stunning DIY money piece.

The short answer: Achieving a money piece at home involves careful sectioning, precise application of lightener (or color), meticulous timing, and nourishing aftercare. It demands patience, the right tools, and a realistic assessment of your hair’s health and your own skill level.

Crafting Your Signature Money Piece: A Step-by-Step Breakdown

Before we get our hands dirty (well, gloved), preparation is key. Imagine it as laying the foundation for a color masterpiece.

1. Arm Yourself: Gather Your Arsenal

• High-Quality Lightener/Developer Kit: This isn’t the place to skimp. Opt for a reputable brand designed for highlighting. Pay close attention to the developer volume. A lower volume (10 or 20) is gentler, while a higher volume (30 or sometimes 40, use with extreme caution) lifts faster. Your hair’s existing color and desired lightness will dictate the choice.
• Toner: This is crucial to neutralize unwanted brassiness and achieve your desired shade. Choose a toner that complements your base color and your lightening goals.
• Developer for Toner: Usually a low volume (5 or 10).
• Mixing Bowls and Applicator Brush: Non-metallic, please!
• Gloves: Multiple pairs! Protect those precious hands.
• Sectioning Clips: Duckbill clips are your best friend.
• Foils: For precise application and preventing bleeding.
• Old Towel and Cape/Old Shirt: Stain city is imminent without these.
• Hair Ties: To keep the rest of your hair out of the way.
• Heat-Protectant Spray: For after the process.
• Deep Conditioner/Hair Mask: To replenish moisture.
• Timer: Absolutely essential to avoid over-processing.
• Mirror (Handheld): For checking the back sections.
• Optional: Olaplex/Bond Builder: To minimize damage during the lightening process.

2. The Blueprint: Planning Your Attack

Examine your face shape and current hairstyle. Where do you want the money piece to start and end? How thick do you want it? Do you want a bold, chunky look or a subtle, blended effect? The answers will guide your sectioning.

3. The Great Divide: Sectioning Like a Pro

This is where precision matters. Using your clips, carefully section off the hair you want to lighten. The typical money piece involves taking sections from the front hairline, extending back a few inches. Aim for symmetrical sections on both sides of your face. Thinner sections will create a more blended look, while thicker sections will be bolder. Use a comb to create clean, even lines.

4. The Color Alchemy: Mixing Your Potions

Follow the instructions on your lightener and toner meticulously. Incorrect ratios can lead to unwanted results or hair damage. Mix in a well-ventilated area. If using a bond builder, add it to the lightener mixture according to the product’s instructions.

5. The Brushstroke: Application with Precision

Starting at the roots, apply the lightener evenly to the selected sections, saturating each strand. Avoid getting lightener on your scalp (especially with high volume developer). Work quickly but carefully. Use the foils to wrap each section after application, preventing bleeding and helping to insulate the hair for even processing.

6. The Waiting Game: Timing is Everything

This is the most crucial part. Set your timer and resist the urge to check every five minutes. Over-processing leads to damage and breakage. Under-processing leads to brassiness. Check a small strand every 10-15 minutes to assess the lift. Remember that hair processes differently on everyone, so relying solely on the box instructions can be risky.

7. The Rinse and Reveal: The Moment of Truth

Once you’ve achieved the desired level of lightness (usually a pale yellow), rinse the lightener thoroughly with cool water. Shampoo gently and rinse again.

8. Toning Time: Banish the Brass

Apply the toner to damp hair, following the product’s instructions. This is where you’ll neutralize any unwanted yellow or orange tones and achieve your desired shade. Rinse thoroughly after the recommended processing time.

9. The Grand Finale: Nourish and Protect

Apply a deep conditioner or hair mask to replenish moisture lost during the lightening process. Leave it on for the recommended time, then rinse. Allow your hair to air dry as much as possible to minimize heat damage. When styling, always use a heat-protectant spray.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

1. What developer volume should I use for my money piece?

The best developer volume depends on your hair’s current color and condition, as well as your desired level of lift. If your hair is already light, a 10 or 20 volume developer might be sufficient. Darker hair will likely require a 30 volume developer for optimal lift. Never use 40 volume developer on your scalp, and use it with extreme caution even on the lengths. If you’re unsure, it’s always better to start with a lower volume and process for a longer time, rather than risk damage with a higher volume.

2. How do I choose the right toner for my money piece?

Consider your base hair color and the level of lightness you achieved with the lightener. If your hair pulled very yellow, you’ll need a toner with purple or violet undertones to neutralize the brassiness. If it pulled more orange, a blue-based toner will be more effective. Look at toner charts and descriptions carefully, and don’t be afraid to consult with a professional if you’re unsure.

3. My money piece turned out orange. What did I do wrong?

Your hair likely wasn’t lightened enough before toning. Orange tones indicate that there is still underlying pigment that needs to be lifted. You may need to re-lighten the sections, using a lower volume developer and processing for a longer time. Then, choose a toner with strong blue undertones to counteract the remaining orange.

4. How often should I redo my money piece?

This depends on how quickly your hair grows and how noticeable your roots are. Generally, you’ll need to touch up your money piece every 4-6 weeks. Avoid over-processing by only applying lightener to the new growth.

5. Can I do a money piece on previously colored hair?

Yes, but proceed with caution. Previously colored hair can be more prone to damage. Perform a strand test first to assess how your hair will react to the lightener. You may need to use a lower volume developer and monitor the processing time closely.

6. What if my money piece turns out too light?

You can use a demi-permanent hair color that is slightly darker than your desired shade to tone down the lightness. Choose a color that complements your base hair color.

7. How do I prevent my money piece from bleeding onto the rest of my hair?

Use foils to wrap each section of hair after applying the lightener or toner. This will prevent the product from spreading and staining other parts of your hair. Apply the product precisely, avoiding contact with the surrounding hair.

8. My hair feels dry and damaged after doing a money piece. What can I do?

Invest in a good quality deep conditioner or hair mask and use it regularly. Look for products that contain moisturizing ingredients like shea butter, coconut oil, or argan oil. Consider using a bond-building treatment like Olaplex to help repair damaged hair. Avoid heat styling as much as possible and always use a heat-protectant spray when you do.

9. What if I mess up?

Don’t panic! Contact a professional stylist for help. They can assess the damage and make corrections to your hair color. Trying to fix the problem yourself could potentially worsen the situation.

10. Can I do a money piece if I have dark hair?

Yes, but it will likely require multiple lightening sessions to achieve the desired level of lightness. Be patient and avoid over-processing your hair. A professional colorist is highly recommended for dark hair, as achieving the right lift without damage can be tricky.

11. How do I maintain the color of my money piece?

Use a sulfate-free shampoo and conditioner to prevent fading. Avoid washing your hair too frequently. Use a color-depositing shampoo or conditioner to help maintain the tone of your money piece. Protect your hair from the sun with a hat or hair product that contains UV protection.

12. Is doing a money piece at home worth it?

It can be, if you’re prepared to invest the time, effort, and money into purchasing the right products and educating yourself on the process. However, if you’re unsure about your skills or your hair is already damaged, it’s always best to consult with a professional stylist. A money piece that’s poorly executed can damage your hair and leave you with a color that you’re unhappy with.

Ultimately, the DIY money piece journey is one of experimentation and learning. Embrace the process, be patient, and always prioritize the health of your hair. Good luck, and happy coloring!