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How to Make Turquoise Jewelry: A Lapidary’s Guide to Crafting Exquisite Pieces

So, you want to craft your own dazzling turquoise jewelry? Excellent! Creating beautiful pieces with this captivating gemstone is a rewarding journey, blending artistry, skill, and a dash of patience. In essence, making turquoise jewelry involves these core steps: sourcing or preparing your turquoise stone, designing your piece, fabricating the setting or components, setting the stone, and finishing with polishing and refinement. Let’s delve into the nuances of each stage and reveal the secrets to crafting stunning turquoise adornments.

Choosing and Preparing Your Turquoise

The quality of your turquoise is paramount. You have two primary options: acquire pre-cut cabochons (polished, domed stones) or work with rough turquoise. Each presents unique advantages.

Sourcing Pre-Cut Cabochons

Purchasing cabochons is ideal for beginners. You’ll find a wide variety of shapes, sizes, and grades of turquoise already prepared. Reputable lapidary suppliers are your best bet for ensuring authenticity and quality. Pay attention to:

Color: Turquoise ranges from sky blue to greenish hues. Choose the shade that appeals to you most.
Matrix: The matrix refers to the patterns of other minerals visible in the turquoise. Spiderweb patterns are highly sought after.
Size and Shape: Consider your design when selecting a cabochon’s dimensions.
Treatment: Some turquoise is stabilized or treated to enhance its color and durability. Understand the treatment before you buy.

Working with Rough Turquoise

For the adventurous artisan, working with rough turquoise allows for complete creative control. This involves lapidary skills, which include:

Cutting: Using a rock saw with a diamond blade, carefully cut the rough turquoise into manageable slabs.
Pre-forming: Grind the slab into a general shape using a grinding wheel.
Cabochon Shaping: Refine the shape with progressively finer grinding wheels until you achieve the desired dome.
Polishing: Use polishing compounds and a buffing wheel to bring out the stone’s luster.

Designing Your Jewelry

Before you pick up a hammer or torch, sketch out your design. Consider:

Style: Do you prefer a classic, contemporary, or rustic aesthetic?
Metal: Sterling silver, gold, and copper are popular choices for turquoise jewelry.
Setting: How will you secure the turquoise? Bezel settings, prong settings, and wire wrapping are common methods.
Components: Will you incorporate beads, charms, or other embellishments?

Fabricating the Setting

This is where your metalworking skills come into play.

Bezel Setting

A bezel is a metal strip that wraps around the turquoise and is then burnished over the edge of the stone to hold it securely.

Measure: Accurately measure the circumference of your turquoise cabochon.
Cut and Form the Bezel: Cut a strip of metal slightly longer than the circumference and form it into a ring. Solder the seam closed.
Solder to Backing: Solder the bezel onto a metal backing plate.
Refine: File and sand the bezel to a smooth, even finish.

Other Setting Methods

Prong Settings: Prongs are metal wires that are bent over the turquoise to hold it in place.
Wire Wrapping: Wire wrapping involves using wire to create intricate designs that secure the turquoise.

Setting the Turquoise

Carefully place the turquoise into the setting.

Setting a Cabochon in a Bezel

Placement: Place the cabochon into the bezel.
Burnishing: Use a burnishing tool to gently push the bezel edge over the turquoise, securing it tightly. Work your way around the stone evenly.
Refinement: Check for gaps and ensure the turquoise is firmly held.

Finishing and Polishing

The final steps are crucial for bringing out the beauty of your creation.

Polishing the Metal

Use polishing compounds and a polishing wheel to remove scratches and create a brilliant shine on the metal.

Cleaning the Turquoise

Gently clean the turquoise with a soft cloth. Avoid harsh chemicals or ultrasonic cleaners, as they can damage the stone.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

1. What is the best type of metal to use for turquoise jewelry?

Sterling silver is a popular and cost-effective choice, offering a bright, reflective surface. Gold provides a luxurious contrast and is hypoallergenic. Copper can create a rustic, earthy aesthetic, but it can tarnish easily. Ultimately, the best metal depends on your personal preference and budget.

2. How can I tell if turquoise is real?

Real turquoise is relatively hard and cool to the touch. Look for natural imperfections and matrix patterns. Be wary of stones that are perfectly uniform in color or have a plastic-like appearance. A scratch test can also help, but be very cautious as it can damage the stone. Research reputable dealers and ask questions about the source and treatment of the turquoise.

3. What is stabilized turquoise?

Stabilized turquoise has been treated with resins to improve its hardness and color, especially for softer or chalky stones. This process makes the turquoise more durable and less likely to chip or crack. While purists prefer natural, untreated turquoise, stabilization is a common and accepted practice.

4. How do I care for my turquoise jewelry?

Avoid exposing turquoise jewelry to harsh chemicals, detergents, and extreme temperatures. Clean it gently with a soft cloth and warm water. Store it in a separate pouch or jewelry box to prevent scratches.

5. What tools do I need to make turquoise jewelry?

Essential tools include: a jeweler’s saw, files, pliers, soldering equipment (if working with metal), a burnisher, polishing compounds, and a polishing wheel. For working with rough turquoise, you’ll also need a rock saw, grinding wheels, and a cabbing machine.

6. Is it difficult to learn how to make turquoise jewelry?

The difficulty depends on the techniques you choose. Simple wire-wrapping or beadwork projects are relatively easy for beginners. More advanced techniques like bezel setting and soldering require practice and skill development. Consider taking a jewelry-making class or watching online tutorials.

7. Where can I buy turquoise stones and supplies?

Reputable lapidary suppliers, jewelry-making supply stores, and online retailers are good sources. Look for suppliers who provide information about the source and treatment of their turquoise.

8. How do I solder metal for jewelry making?

Soldering involves using heat and solder to join two pieces of metal together. You’ll need a torch, solder, flux, and safety equipment. Practice soldering on scrap metal before working on your turquoise jewelry project. Ensure adequate ventilation.

9. What is a bezel pusher?

A bezel pusher is a specialized tool used to gently and evenly push the bezel edge over the turquoise cabochon in a bezel setting. It helps to create a secure and professional-looking setting.

10. Can I use other gemstones with turquoise?

Yes! Turquoise pairs beautifully with a variety of other gemstones, including coral, spiny oyster, lapis lazuli, and even diamonds for a striking contrast. Consider the color and texture of the stones to create a harmonious design.

11. How do I prevent the metal from tarnishing?

Store your turquoise jewelry in airtight bags or containers to minimize exposure to air and moisture. Clean it regularly with a polishing cloth. You can also apply a tarnish-resistant coating to the metal.

12. What are some common design mistakes to avoid?

Using too much glue: Glue should only be used as a last resort and in small amounts.
Overheating turquoise: Turquoise can be damaged by excessive heat during soldering.
Using harsh chemicals: Avoid using harsh chemicals to clean turquoise.
Poorly fitting settings: Ensure the setting fits the turquoise snugly to prevent it from coming loose.

Crafting turquoise jewelry is a rewarding skill. With practice, dedication, and a touch of creativity, you can create stunning pieces that showcase the natural beauty of this remarkable gemstone. So gather your tools, select your turquoise, and embark on your jewelry-making adventure!